![]() ![]() ![]() Use the 6resmon command to identify the processes that are causing your problem. Should you experience an actual problem, try to recall the last thing you did, or the last thing you installed before the problem appeared for the first time. Always remember to perform periodic backups, or at least to set restore points. This means running a scan for malware, cleaning your hard drive using 1cleanmgr and 2sfc /scannow, 3uninstalling programs that you no longer need, checking for Autostart programs (using 4msconfig) and enabling Windows' 5Automatic Update. With what we know now (agreeing with epoxy doubts earlier posted) we would probably not make the same decision, but go with drying out, Cuprinol, and impregnation with linseed oil, which on other bits we've treated hardens things up considerably.A clean and tidy computer is the key requirement for avoiding problems with joxi. We were sometimes too quick to accept advice. Anyone know if the stuff still exists under another name? or is it (was it) the same kind of animal as the CPES just mentioned? Unfortunately the only Immac I can find now on the internet is a brand of cosmetic. ![]() The wood behind the impregnation depth (grit your teeth and push the moisture meter prongs further in) has let go of moisture over the 4 weeks. The planks are still traditionally caulked and stopped with red-lead putty. So everything has turned out more stable, and stronger. There is still slow but sure moisture take-up and loss (just-visible shrinking at the moment after 4 weeks out of the water in our recent heat-wave). It is NOT a complete moisture barrier, as a normal epoxy would be. We had it done, and it has been very successful. He recommended impregnation with something called Immac clear penetrating epoxy resin - which was apparently originally developed to impregnate concrete! Ten years ago (just after purchase!), our surveyor found that our remaining original 1911 pitch pine planks (bottom three each side) were overly water-softened, with some wet rot. The mahogany runabout fraternity in the US - seem to be very keen advocates of this product, and some of their boats have had thousands of hours of effort devoted to restoration and finishing. The bad news is that it's expensive and it's not available in the UK - you've got to order it from the US, or from Scandinavia, and since it's got a high VOC content it will cost you a fortune in shipping - since it's ususally treated as hazardous. ![]() Many people claim that CPES greatly increases the bond between the wood and your varnish or paint, so that you won't need to paint your boat as often. It will also tend to reduce the movement of timbers so soaking up won't work - you'll need to have watertight joints before you launch your boat. If you apply it on dry timber then rot shouldn't be able to grow. The theory is that it soaks into the wood (very deeply in areas where there might be some rot degradation - you've removed the really rotten stuff of course!!), and then forms a seal which allows wood to change it's moisture content very very slowly. It's not a traditional epoxy but a by-product from the timber industry. Clear Penetrating Epoxy Sealer buy Smiths in the US. If you look at the Wooden boat forums there's also a very large number of people who use a product called CPES. It would be nice to see some testing data published. I would consider this a solid recommendation. However, it is interesting to note the similarities of Carnell's concoctions to the commercial products. I don't claim to be an expert, let alone an amatuer chemist. Most dramatically, it penetrates and kills rot quickly and thoroughly. The concoction has worked for me, though I haven't clinically tested it. bring to about 260 deg F (don't fight it. The gallon batches that I make keep indefinately (so far) without seperating.ฤก lb boric acid (available from ) It's quite easy, just be sure not to over cook. I have used the recipe that calls for combining ethylene glycol, boric acid, and borax into solution by boiling. This is similar to the recipe in a number of commercial products that are used in building construction, agriculture, and ship building to combat wood destroying insects and fungi. The key is combining Boric Acid with ethylene glycol into a solution. Here, he references all the other mentions of this solution in WB, and gives a pretty good abstract to sum it up. I don't have a link to post with this, but you can look up Pete Spectre's column, "On the Waterfront", WB 161, July/August 2001. See "On the Waterfront" column in WB 123, 131, 160 and "Wood Technology" column in WB 110, 149, 152, and 159. However, with a key ingredient added - Boric Acid. For what it's worth, there is considerable support for ethylene glycol in Wooden Boat magazine. ![]()
0 Comments
Leave a Reply. |
AuthorWrite something about yourself. No need to be fancy, just an overview. ArchivesCategories |